Westcoast Sailing - Week 1, Aug. 2011

Jim and I arrived in the evening of Aug 5 at the marina to board Maggilou. We hauled bags of food, clothing, and other supplies. By 11 pm every item was stowed and we fell into our berth for the night. The marina was very quiet and we thought we'd quickly be asleep.
The waters of the bay sloshed against the stern of the boat. The wind picked up and lines above us started tapping the sides of our room. When we ascertained that all sounds were 'normal' (no critters aboard) we settled down to a fitful sleep. By early morning the water was heavy against our berth, the wind vane was whirling, yet we were safely tied against the marina dock.

Aug 6. Marg and Dave (M&D) arrived with more food supplies and it was all stowed by 9 am. and then we motored out of the safe harbour.
The seas quickly grew heavy with waves of 2 m. plus. Dave put up the main sail to help keep the boat stable but it was a challenging morning for a least one old body!! (It takes muscle to hold on!) By noon the winds had quieted to a good stiff sail. The main and jib were up for a good long run so our captain was in his element.

The afternoon turned sunny and warm. Tribune Bay on Hornby Is. is our destination and we anchor there with at least 30 other vessels. It was extremely peaceful after such an arduous day.



Jim and I explored the beach together. Lovely sandy area and then sandstone rock formations on one side of the bay, washed full of holes and swirls, the result of eons of water and rock working against each other.

Norm and Marylou (N&M) are rafted to us in their new tug-like Ranger, named Malu.
All is once again serene and the sun has set.




Aug 7
We were up early, breakfasted, unrafted from Malu and ready to journey on.
Jim and I had slept like babies, M&D were awake a lot, worrying about some winds. The waters were calm until we were well out in the channel. More heavy seas, not as hard as yesterday but we plowed for a while. By afternoon the seas were quite calm, 2 sails were up and the motor still running. 7 hours later we arrived at Rebecca Spit (on Quadra Is.)

Anchored again and Malu rafted to our side we got to our 'duties'. M&D take Annie the dog to shore. I make hamburgers for a quick meal.

We dinghied to shore for a hike along the spit. It is on these shores that we finally meet the third party who will be with us for the trip. Dave had met Stewart on the marina and invited him along. None of us had met him or his wife Gail but we all struck an immediate chord of friendship and comradere. Stewart and Gail have a 42 ft. Jeanneau and have not had a lot of experience on the northern westcoast.
Jim and I hiked up to a cafe, hoping to find wi-fi but alas - none. The evening was balmy and we all enjoyed our hikes.


Water temp. 18.5C

Later our crew watched 'The Accidental Tourist'. Dave has a large screen computer for such pleasures.

Aug. 8
Another good sleep, quick brekky, and we motored around to the entrance of Herriot Bay. The guys all refueled their boats, us ladies walked to the grocery store. I actually bought a loaf of calabrais and a bottle of red wine.
By 11 am we were out of the harbour and enjoying sights along the way. It was a short run today, waited for Surge Narrows to be 'accommodating', then some sailing in Okisollo Channel, a little fishing with no luck and by 3 pm we were anchored behind Octopus Is. in Waiatt Bay.


N&M had caught enough cod to share with all 3 boats so we feast again tonight.
The sun and sea are beautiful again today. The crab traps are out and we relax with a coffee.
Water temp. 12 C.



Aug 9 And I left my camera on the boat!!!
Jim and I arose to Dave and Norm bringing in 2 loaded crab traps. We cooked them up, cooled them and then our whole crew dinghied the length of Waiatt Bay,tied the lines to rocks and began a km hike to Small Bay (across the island) on Johnstone Strait. Not a particularly interesting bay so we turned and followed a primitive trail through the forest to Newton Lake. We climbed over and under logs, up rocky cliffs and over sometimes mucky and sometimes dusty trails. We felt so very wonderfully alone in this forest. At last we heard a trickling brook, but we had to climb a very steep embankment to higher ground. We crossed the brook on rocks and walked further.
We saw water below us but it was a small and dissappointing pond. The path continued so some of us decided we should carry on. We were well rewarded when we finally arrived at the very beautiful and swimable Newton Lake. We had a drink and whatever we'd brought for a snack, relaxed and wished for our bathing suits. Dave and Stewart did have a good swim.
The hike back was challenging for the knees on the downward slopes but we eventually arrived back where we'd left the dinghies. They were both floating out from shore - attached by their line to rocks which were now underwater. Dave 'borrowed' another dinghy and rescued ours and S&Gs.
Back at our boats we all were able to prepare a banquet of crab, etc. It was gorgeous, delicate and sufficient.
Tonight we are tired but have good memories of our ambitious day.
Long evening light with dustings of pink across the sky and water. So peaceful and serene.
Water temp 12.4C

Aug 10
These days are full of wonder. This BC coast is abundant in sights that stir the soul. Islets, rapids, tides, mountains, sea life.




We were away by 7 am in order to catch some slack tides. We timed it nicely as we motored out way through 3 different sets of rapids. It would be impossible to go through them in full flow - some are 9 knots and Maggilou has a top speed of about 7 knots.


Stopped in Mermaid bay for several hours to make good timing through Dept Rapids. By that evening we were safely tucked behind small Cordero Islands and were able to walk on the BC mainland coastline.
There is evidence here of a sawmill having been on shore. The cabin has been abandoned - in haste! Old cans and jars of food, dishes, part of a bankpack, pots and pans, etc but most things in total disarray. We didn't feel free to snoop too much.
The broken down pier has starfish - ones with long skinny legs and not much body.
Lunch today was a crab salad - well received. Supper was elk meatballs in BBQ sauce. We do not suffer!!
In this peaceful anchorage tonight we have 5 Canadian salboats and 3 small yachts.
Water temp 10C

Aug 11
A good lazy morning. Huckleberry pancakes then Jim and I went to shore. We walked over large smooth stones that connected 1 islet to the mainland. S&G later picked up Marg and we wandered free down the coastline. Marg spent her time harvesting blackberries, the rest of us just enjoyed various aspects of nature and history.
We all went back to the abandoned cabin. It looks like a small family just walked away. Old bottles of canned cherries, plums, saurkraut, etc. It was surprising not to find foodstuff strewn around. 2 doors had been left wide open - but no daddy bear was sleeping in a bed.
Back on board relaxing, we got a call fromS&G to tell us a little bear was swimming through kelp to the islet. We rushed to watch it and once it climbed up the rocks we could see it was a beautiful mature black bear. It made it's way along our same pathway, eating the very berries that Marg had so diligently picked.


We pulled anchor at 3 pm to head yet northward. Dave was able to sail again through a wide arm called Loughborough Channel. Ahead of us were snow covered coastal ranges. A dolphin swam alongside for a short time.

Tonight we anchor and both our companion boats raft to us.
Crab cupcakes, spinach salad and fresh fruit cobbler for dessert.
Water temp 17.5 (it seems every bay is different)

Aug 12
Another early get-away. Dave was on deck at 6:30 am and was treated to a school of dolphins frolicing past. By the time we got on deck they had 'galloped' off toward the strait. Finding various lifestyles along the way is so amazing. People build grand houses, some on land and some on floats. Fish farms are tucked into many bays and seem to be a thriving business - but they will never have mine!



We sailed and motored to Port Neville. Beyond the dock the waters were choked with bull kelp but we were able to pull up to the dock.

Port Neville had been a post office since 1895 and closed in 2010. It is a parkline acreage with 2 well built houses on it. Inside the largest building is a bookstore and a small museum. The museum had a 1930 phone book for BC so I looked up Burton and found my grandfather (James Fuller) and some Allard relatives too. So cool!
A windy evening so we stayed inside our boats, securely tied to the dock.





Aug 13
A nice morning of walking the shores and lawns again.

Below the waters by the pier were filled with huge white anemonies beautiful scarlet ones, small crabs, large starfish clung to the post as well. The ocean is alive here!
Enjoyed our time at P.N. and enjoyed meeting the older gentleman, named Alex) who is now the caretaker. Marg made him some super blueberry muffins that a.m. so he will remember us with fondness!

The motoring through Johnson Strait could not have been better, very quiet water and currents, well time by Dave. We saw our first Meinke whale.
It rained lightly as we turned off at the Broken Islands. What a gorgeous place. Large rocks sticking out of the water, topping with a few hardy but stunted trees.



The waters were calm so all 3 boats broke out their fishing gear and we jigged for an hour while we waited for Chatham Channel to be safe timing to go by the 'Blow Hole'.
Soon we were anchored in a shelter beside Lagoon Cove.


M & I made fish and oven fried chips and coleslaw for supper. Superb!! If you want the best batter recipe - call me!!