Things I'm glad I brought

Things I'm glad I brought

#1. OIL OF OLAY WITH SPF 15
I put it on my face and neck every morning and have not had any hint of sunburn. I much prefer it to the suntan lotions.

#2. My Ecco sandals.
From time to time I have had a few places on my feet that were blistered but they have toughened up and now I can wear them all day without any complaint. They are light, airy and have good support.

#3. My very light cotton shorts and shirts.
I have others that have some polyester in them and they are impossible for me to wear – too heavy and hot. That means my costume doesn't change very much but I am comfortable and that is more important to me. It does mean lots of hand washing. I've needed my light cotton skirt for a couple of visits to monasteries. I've bought two light cotton blouses here and a pair of cotton shorts, my own very light t-shirts still feel like too much clothing.

#4. Faceclothes
When we are conserving our water supply it is great to pull out a facecloth, wet it, and wash off. A little cloth goes a long way.

My address book
I like to send a few postcards even tho most of my family reads my blog.

My glasses and glass cleaner
Everyday my glasses have greasy suntan lotion on them and often a little salty sea spray so it's great to be able to clean them well.


Greek Island Books
Our travel books have been invaluable to us. We only brought the ones for the Greek Islands and once we hit the Peloponesse we had to buy a mainland book to help us out there. None of them are a help with coming in from the sea but there is a book on board that is an excellent maritimer's aid.

So, it's like they always say, “Take half of what is in your suitcase, and twice as much money”.

I guess that's all I needed.

Athens in September

Athens September 11 and 12


So that was Athens.

We were told by two men who live in Athens that one day was plenty to see what this city has to offer. We beg to differ.

I could have done a photo shoot of 'all things ugly in Athens' because we saw plenty of nasty old buildings, but I chose to see the great side and have photos of 'some things awesome in Athens'.

We spent one whole day looking at ruins and the Acropolis and Parthenon. We were astounded when we walked to the top and it was absolutely crowded with tourists. What the heck are they doing there anyway!! What an incredible history and monument to the abilities of mankind.

We also had the experience of walking up Mars Hill, just like the apostle Paul did and possibly on the same road. When we got to the top we talked about his speech to the philosophers who were there.

Second day we four paid 5E for a bus ticket that we could use all day and get on and off at all the various sites of interest around the core of the city. We got as far as the Archaeological Museum and spent half the day there. The artifacts start back as far as 16000 BC and they are still amazing.

Pots, vases, jewelery, statues, funerary pieces and military gear were all part of the display. It amazed us how many pieces have been found in such good condition. Other pieces have been reformed around bits of the whole that were found.

Back on the bus we traveled over to Hadrian's gate and some remaining pillars of the temple of Zeus.

Dave wanted to take some night pictures of the Parthenon so they jumped off the bus and we rode for one more stop to near our hotel.

We grabbed a sandwich and a drink at a local coffee shop and went back to our hotel room to eat and relax.

To Athens, by bus Sept 10

Lefkada to Athens, by bus September 10

Between the two of us we have many bags of luggage so we called a taxi to take us to the new bus station. The bus was very new and had great windows and seat.

It was a quick trip, long wait, no announcement of board times or places and we had to make sure our luggage was put aboard in the right place. Greek style I guess. Canadian style, we got on board and sat where we wanted, only to find out that we get assigned seats – and our were almost at the back, so we moved and had to ask people to leave our seats too. It was all done very civilly.

It was a very interesting trip right from the beginning. We crossed a small but important bridge as we left town. It is necessary to get to the bridge at the right time because every hour or two it lifts and turns so that sailboats and their high masts can pass through.

Yet another fort was situated on the far side of the river. Jim had walked to it one day but the rest of us hadn't bothered.

Again the countryside reminded us so much of the Okanagan, desert but abundant where produce was cared for. So many olive groves. There were quite a few small settlements along the way and they all looked like places we would like to explore.

About an hour into the five hour trip we crossed a beautiful new bridge. The Rion-antirion cable stayed bridge connects the Polyponesse to the mainland. The huge cables look like 4 great white sails.

We stopped for lunch. Again, it was quick, no announcement and no boarding announcement either.

The great excitement of the trip was to snap a picture as we crossed the Corinth canal. At one time the isthmus joined the mainland but was dug out so that ships would have a shorter trip go to through the canal rather than down around the Peloponesse. The long trip was much more interesting for us but we were not in a hurry either. The canal is 6.3 km long and it was finished in 1893. Those guys knew what they were doing back then.

Five hours later we were in Athens.

So long, it's been good to know you.

Bye bye Cariad

We had a fun little ceremony as we said goodbye to wonderful Cariad.
The Canadian flag had flown just below the Welsh flag and it had to be removed. Dave, as captain, had the duty. I struck up 'Oh Canada' and Marg chimed in so we well represented Canada as her flag was lowered.

The Welsh flag had to go back up. Just at that time a lady came along and said Hi to Howard (he's the welshman) and she was Welsh as well. So they started up the Welsh anthem as the flag was raised back to it's proper position.

It was all quite lovely and fun.

Lefkada town on Lefkada Island Sept 8 and 9

After leaving Lefkas we travelled north to Lefkada for our final destination. Dave managed to get about an hour of motor sailing in before we had to pull in the sails and make our way through a very narrow channel to the dock.

The channel was very hard to find except for markers which have been our nemesis since we started. We don't know if it is only Greek or the whole European continent that had their directions exactly backward to what we know in North America. At home, if you are entering a channel you keep the red buoy on your right and the green on your left (and in your head you say, right red returning). Here is is opposite, in right green returning and you'd better be right. We saw the remains of a couple of ships who had gotten into very shallow waters.

So we entered the shallow channel, feeling like we were the only people going in – sailboat after sailboat was heading out – and they all seemed to have British flags on them. Many are only here for very short vacations and will sail a bit and do the tourist thing and then head back home.

We arrived at the docks and were asked to moor alongside (rather than stern tie). It was convenient for us too. We got the fresh water hose attached and set to giving Cariad a final wash. She polished up nicely and we can proudly return it to Howard and Polly.

We walked down a couple of long streets in Lefkada and saw an awesome sunset. Had a bite to eat at a pier side cafe.

Early Tuesday a.m. Howard met us at the boat and we went over details with him on various items that were changed – fixed or not fixed. Over the two months at sea Dave and Jim had done quite a few modifications. They are two very handy men and there wasn't much that wasn't better by the end of the trip than when we first started with it. (I didn't mean that to sound like it wasn't good when we started – it's just that boats need constant maintenance, and they were the guys to do it!)

We like Lefkada and have decided to stay two nights in a local hotel. We will explore the town today and just relax a bit before we head toward Athens (a 5 hour bus ride).

Nidri, Lefkas Is. Sept 5 and 6

Nidri, Kevkas Is. September 5 and 6/09

This has been a 'stop and relax' 'clean up the boat' 'put in time until we go to Lefkadas on the 7th'.

Nidri has many tourists and lots of tavernas and shops where we could spend money if we were interested in bric-a-brac and trinkets. If you know me you know I'm not interested in that.

We explored a few streets and picked up a few groceries to see us through to the last day.

Last night we watched a whole wedding procession leave this dock by boat and motor across the bay to a lovely little church that sits right by the water. It took at least 3 trips to take all the people there. The bride had a glamourous white gown, and she looked mature. It was hard to define anyone as attendants although many young ladies were dressed quite glamourously.

This afternoon we thought we'd spend swimming at beaches on the north end of town. While we were preparing to go a very large yacht came charging into the bay and made a wake so large that it shoved a lot of the sailboats that are stern tied at this dock. Our boat was caught in a wake that slammed us against the dock and one of the large fenders actually collapsed and our stern hit the cement wall. It also chopped a small rope that hangs at the back to lift our ladder. What a shock. There was a dock man here in about a minute and he must have called the police immediately because they were here within minutes.

We watched the big yacht try to dock one boat beyond us. It took them 4 try. I think they must have had some very inexperienced crew (and captain) on board. They took no responsibility for their actions and just told anyone who complained to go talk to the port authorities. At least 4 captains have done that. Tomorrow we should know what the result will be and how to process the damage to the rim of our stern, etc. Imagine, we've gone through high seas and strong winds, anchored, moored, and tied up at all sorts of places in all sorts of situations, and two days from being finished we sustain a little damage.

The truth is, the guys are capable of repairing it to look fine but we don't want to do it without knowing what the owner thinks would be the best way to handle it. Howard phoned to say that we should see his insurance broker in Lefkada so we can do that tomorrow.

So, never a dull moment, and some are a little more intense than we care for.

Tonight we can see a big lightening storm well to the north of us. That's the first of that kind of activity we've seen too.

Vlikho Bay Sept 4/09

Vlikho Bay September 4/09

We said goodbye to our lovely little retreat port in Spiglia Bay. We had all enjoyed our stop there and the relaxing time we had. We'd met quite a few people and enjoyed good meals at Babis taverna.

Right out of the harbour and as we motored north, we saw the two island that Aristotle Onassis owned. They would have been lovely to stay on. They are still private and no one is allowed on the land.

We passed by the extremely busy port city of Nidri and motored further south into the bay. There are sailboats anchored on all sides. What a crazy place. The truth is, it's a quiet day for winds on the water so I guess people decide to take a day off and sit.... I don't know. We stayed. We wanted to wash the boat and get it looking really nice for when we hand it back to Howard and Polly.

Jim and I spent hours scrubbing the deck. Now we know what swabbing the deck is all about! There are so many little niches to scrub around. We enjoyed the project and think it looks a lot better. Dave cleaned a lot of the stainless steel and Marg worked down below (she hates to be in the sun). It kept us all busy for about 5 hours and then we stopped.

Sadly, this bay is not for swimming. It is so polluted and has so many jelly fish in it I wouldn't go swimming for love nor money. It is still a pretty bay to be in. Lots of houses around and tavernas here and there but we are satisfied to stay on the boat and eat a few of our groceries and relax tonight.

Spiglia Bay, day 2, Sept 3

Spiglia Bay, Megasini Island Sept 3/09

We have enjoyed this stop in a very small place so decided to stay for another night. Our port host 'Bobby' tries really hard to make a stay here everything you could want.

Marg had made some Greek coffee for breakfast (tastes like boiled tobacco) so I wandered over to the cafe for a morning capuccino. The cafe is really the only thing here at this port but there are lots of tour boats and ferries which come and go all day.

Jim and Dave did a few projects on the boat but we mostly relaxed and took it easy. Late afternoon we walked to a nearby beach and swam for a while. The water is perfect temperature and it was very enjoyable to be there. Then it was back to the boat, shower and find some clean clothes to wear.

M & D went back up the hill to the chora for a snack and to use the internet. Jim and I opted to stay near the boat and we had calamari and salad at our local cafe. Very nice and, as always, it was outside so we enjoyed the sunset and then the full moon. Very pleasant.

So now we are back on the boat and the soft breeze is wafting across the water so we are feeling like this is paradise. I do think I may be right.

Sivota Bay, Levkas Is

Sivota Bay, Levkas Is. Aug 31, 09

We had some lovely sailing today. Now we know we are back to civilization, so many more boats and ferries in this area. Fortunately we made it to the harbour at Sivota in midafternoon. We managed to stern tie between a British sailboat and a Greek powerboat.

For the rest of the afternoon we watched dozen of sailboat enter the harbour. Jim counted until we reached 100 and more came in after that. It is the home harbour for several sailboat charter companies so they have lots of boats and lots of places reserved only for them.

Marg and Dave went for a quick swim at the end of our quay.

We walked the length of the town along the beach and took some photos. Stopped at a bar long enough to do some email and then found a cafe. The girl who served us had an unusual English accent so I asked her where she was from. She laughed and said that we probably couldn't guess. I guessed South Africa and she looked a little nonplussed and then told us she is from Iceland. She is a young blonde girl, working here for the summer season. She says she hasn't learned Greek – it is too hard!

We had a nice supper in a rooftop cafe and enjoyed all but the cigarette smoke from the next table.

In spite of the crowds of people off and on the boats, it was a quiet evening and we enjoyed a good sleep.

Meganisi Island, Athini Bay – Sept 1, 2009

We thought we should travel down the long spit on Meganisi to see a cave (grotto) where it is suggested a Greek submarine sometimes hid during the II world war. We looked at it and decided it would have to be a 4 person sub to be able to fit in the cave. Of course things could have changed, what with the major earthquake in 1953.

It was a beautiful coastline to see and we enjoyed the trip and wished we could have anchored and played in the caves and bays. We would need a much smaller boat and somewhere to anchor our sailboat (in not so deep waters).

Tonight we have anchored in a bay on the north side of the island. We have one other boat in this harbour, and listening to their conversation they sound German – but they could be Greek. (about our age). On the other side of the bay there are at least a dozen big sailboats anchored and then long lines tied to the beach. It helps when a wind comes up. Only a couple of power boats here.

It is possible to dinghy to shore and walk 300 metres to a little grocery store or walk the other direction and be at a lovely beach and snack/drink cafe.

Jim has been busy with little odd jobs all day. After we arrived, Jim jumped in the water and decided to wash the bottom area of the boat (not under). It meant he had to scrub the boat, tread water, and keep himself against the boat. It was a big feat. I joined him and we had fun as we scrubbed and rinsed our way around the boat. It does look better, all we need now is some fresh (not salt) water for a final rinse.

We actually ate on board this evening – not usual for us but we need to eat up some of the groceries we have been buying. It was such a peaceful evening. The sun set slowly and it was so lovely just to sit in the cockpit and watch the change of colour in the sky and sea.

Assos on the Isthmus

Assos on Kefillonia August 30

We motored around the top end of Kefillonia and down the west side to the little village of Assos.What a jewel we found. As we entered the small bay we could see a well preserved 16th century wall on the hills to our right. There is a fort attached to the top corner wall and the remains of housing for 3000 people. Straight ahead and to the left is the little village on the 'Ithmus of Assos' (say that fast 5 times).

Space was availabe for us on the small quay and we tied up beside another British boat. If I have his accent correct he's actually Irish. He and his wife have a 6th interest in a 33' sailboat so they take their 2 weeks now and 2 weeks at another time. That's easy to do from English, I suppose.

The waters were clear and inviting and it wasn't long before we were all swimming or snorkeling around the bay. It is so perfect.... as long as you keep well clear of the sewer outlets, etc.

Jim and I explored this town too. This is another town that was devastated by earthquake in 1953. We saw the remains of 5 large buildings that have little left to them but the front wall. They are for sale – but we didn't ask the price!

As usual, along the waterfront are cafes and quite a few tourists. The new buildings are all built in the same style as pre 1953 so you get a feel of what the place was, and now is. We loved it. The housing is still very venetian, in fact Italians owned this island for quite a number of years.

There is a war story from here. During German occupation they rounded up 1000 Italian military and marched them off one of the high cliffs above the sea. There are many high cliffs on this island.

We met a couple from Milan while we were exploring the town. They were thrilled with this place too. When he found out we lived near Vancouver he told us that it has been his life dream to visit Canada. He now has 40 weeks of work left and then he will retire so after that he will come to Vancouver, rent a car, and go looking for our wildlife. They know about Banff and Jasper so may head that way.

Fiscardo,Kefalonia Is. Aug 29/09

Fiscardo, Kefalonia August 29/09

We sailed up the east side of Ithaca, across the top and back to the island of Kefalonia. Fiscardo is the most northerly town and it is a charming and busy port.

We managed to find a spot on the dock right beside a big tour ship. It departed after a couple of hours and in the meantime we were glad for the shade that it afforded. It was a hot and humid day.

Jim and I walked around through the town in the late afternoon. We saw some lovely sights. One sidewalk/alleyway was loaded with gorgeous potted plants of all varieties. We wondered how someone could bother to take care of such a mass of plants. Those breathtaking moments stay with us.

Lots of tourists come here for short visits, many for only a few hours and then are back on a ferry or tour boat and off to some other place.

Early on the morning of the 30th.
This town has an interesting old lighthouse near the sea and a newer one up the hill. Jim and I walked around that the lighthouses and through some scrub pine to get to the ocean. It was gorgeous and we found lots of shade so didn't go into meltdown.

Once back to the boat we could see that we were taking a space that someone else wanted so we pulled out and headed out around the north end of the island.

Ithaca Island, Aug. 28

Ithaca Island August 28/09

Last night we were on a pier with boats on both sides of us and cafes all along the beach. Busy and noisy compared to tonight.

Tonight we are anchored in a tiny bay on Ithaca Island and there is one other sailboat (Spanish flag) anchored farther out – so we are virtually alone. The hills have lots of trees, many olive trees which are greyish green and round in growing habit, and then some tall, slender, dark green cypress dot the higher landscape. A lovely combination.

On land are two beaches, separated by a rocky wall. We anchored out from the wall and Dave dinghied in and stern tied us to some rocks on the wall – just for sabilization if the winds pick up or change.

We see/hear German and Greek families enjoying the beach area and there are a few tents back in the trees where they are likely camping.

Again we were quick to get in the clear inviting waters. At least we thought we were all in until we realized Jim was rowing around in the dinghy – he wanted to get some pictures of Cariad without the usual various boats alongside. He quickly joined us in the water and we had a fun time just checking out the beach and rocks. I picked up a few lovely treasures on this beach, such beautifully smooth pale stones.

We saw a variety of little fish, and a few bigger blue coloured ones. By big, I mean 10 inches max. It is fun to watch the really small ones, like minnows, swim on the very surface of the water as they look for little treasures to nibble. 10 to 15 in a group.

Tonight we ate aboard, no taverna in this bay. We did read that this bay has a reverse osmosis plant that is used for the whole (small) island.

After dinner Marg and I sat in the cockpit and read our books. The sounds of the families enjoying the beach, playing beach ball, picnicing, children laughing only adds to the charm of this place. As things quieted down and the sun set we could hear the bells on the goats as they undoubted made their way back to the stables for the night.

Except for a visit of 3 wasps at our supper table (in the cockpit), it was all very lovely.